The best of haute couture

It’s haute couture season! I was really excited to see what the different brands would put together and how they would structure their shows. Below I have written about the shows that particularly stood out to me and what I noticed whilst watching them. If you want to check them out simply click on the  brand name to watch the full show.

Giambattista Vallir

The show begins with airy, almost fairy-tale like music which is in sharp contrast with the opening look; a striking black mini dress. Vallir experiments with shape in this collection, especially with the varying types of sleeves. The music changes and becomes more military, but still maintains the fairy-tale like undertone, as the more regal, long dresses appear. As the military drums disappear and are replaced with a romantic tune, the more sophisticated and lighter (in terms of colour but mostly in terms of material) looks begin to enter the runway. The music then kicks up again and we see more of the sharp lines that were presents in the first part of the show, yet there is still an element of femininity with the airy material and light colours. The addition of the romantic, brass tune at the end signifies the last look which is definitely the most romantic, emphasised by the addition of the veil. What a great ending to the show.

Ralph & Russo

Suits are really in right now so to start the show with a selection of embroidered suits in different colours was a wise choice. The embroidery on these suits was very intricate and minimal and thus added a nice touch without becoming tacky. The crystal embroidery was a common theme in the pieces with each piece having its own signature shine. The pieces moved amazingly as the models walked down the runway which added a flirty element to the sophistication; the high slits and cut outs also achieved this outcome. Midway through the show, some quirky patterns appear on the clothes, such as embroidered bananas, yet the element of sophistication is still maintained in these pieces. By utilising simple and flattering silhouettes, Ralph and Russo ensure that the focus is on the embroidery, cutting and flow of the pieces and thus do not create too much too distraction. Just when you thought the show was over, Candice Swanepoel walks out in a beautiful crystal embroidered wedding dress and a veil. *faints*

Chanel

I saw the runway and was immediately sold on the collection; a garden with a swimming pool. Thankfully, the pieces did not disappoint. I liked that the models had their hair combed up as this allows you to really appreciate the clothing (as there is no hair covering it) and also added a masculine edge to the feminine outfits and vibe of the show. Classic Chanel, very refined and classy pieces with a bit of an edge, whether this be rounded sleeves, embroidery, or an interesting collar. As the music changes, the younger, flirtier pieces come out. All in all, the show channelled elegance, creativity and fun and felt as if we were in a romantic film in Spain. The closing look was a crystal embroidered swim suit with a matching cap and a veil which, I believe, encapsulates romantic film in a very Chanel way.

Valentino

This show gained the most traffic on social media, especially the fact that Naomi Campbell closed the show. It is just amazing how she is still the best in the game after so many years. In addition, I am totally here for having this many black models in one show. Bright colours on dark skin?! Yes please. Unlike the other shows, a lot of the looks were pants looks and also none of the pieces were form fitting. This allows Pierpaolo Piccioli to experiment with shapes and silhouettes to add another dimension of interest to the pieces. Mixing colours, such as olive and pink, which are not often thought of together was bold but a very wise decision that worked. The intricacy of the design and detailing of the gowns was beautiful.

Balmain

Finally! I’ve been waiting for a Balmain show in so long and this one delivered. The bold shapes, especially circles, used in the looks was show stopping, especially as the colours and patterns of the pieces was minimal. Whilst there was a lot of experimentation with the shapes used, the pieces were still flattering for the female body. Branding was used cleverly in this show with the B on some of the accessories. Olivier Rousteing really did that.

Iris Van Herpen

Bold music and bold clothes. Each piece was literally wearable art; the patterns, shapes and construction were so awe inspiring. The pieces were very dreamy in the way they moved, and this was especially evident when the music became softer. The simple, wood floor and dim lighting allowed the bright colours to really pop and places the sole focus on the clothes. A dramatic change of music and scenery (lights are dimmed further) reveals that the movement of the clothes and silhouette created by them is just as important as the colours and patterns.

I didn’t want this post to be too long or for me to end up repeating myself so here are some other shows I really enjoyed that you should also check out:

Tony Ward, Schiaparelli, Zuhair Murad, Christian Dior, Dundas 

Let me know what you think of these shows and if there are any other shows you enjoyed

 

Love Jummy

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